so i bought this book yesterday at Barnes & Noble with all intentions of being slightly bored, but still getting to see pictures of massive waves and cute surfers. Boy was I wrong. To me the most important quality in a person is how strong they are (and i mean emotionally and mentally..not physically). The Wave is all about surfers and their photographers and sponsors and how they travel the world in search of the perfect wave. It focuses on Laird Hamilton. and from what I've learned so far. he.is.insane. he goes to find the needle in the haystack and ride one of the biggest waves in the ocean. while i don't know much about surfing one thing i do know is that it takes a lot of strength. and not just being strong enough to dive, get up, and carve out the face of the wave. These people have to be strong enough to face the ocean after it has ripped them to shreds. & to me...that's pretty amazing. i guess life is kind of like the ocean in the sense that sometimes a rogue wave comes out of nowhere and tries to knock us down. but the question is...will we get back up? i plan on it.
i'll keep you posted on what goes on while I continue reading, but for now I'll leave you with this: "....two contrary emotions arose in me, fear and desire- fear of the threatening dark cavern, desire to see whether there were marvelous things in it." Leonardo da Vinci
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